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NOSY ROSY WINE COLUMN


Lianda Beyers-Cronje, world traveller, passionate wine lover
and wine columnist on Nosy Rosy.




Parlez-vous Vino?

 

A winemaker’s dream

It is if all the elements have conspired to culminate in the perfect harvest here in the Overberg this year – a gradual ripening process with just enough sun, rain and wind to produce grapes of outstanding quality.

“A winemaker’s dream,” is how Hamilton Russell’s winemaker Hannes Storm describes this year’s harvest. “It is a much better and easier harvest than last year when we had to cope with the danger of fungus because of the late on and off rain in February.”

The harvesting process started for some winemakers as early as middle February while others have waited until now.  The right time to harvest depends on many factors, among others the sugar content in the grapes, the specific cultivar and the wine for which the grapes are intended.


Visit the Hermanuspietersfontein Food and Wine market every Saturday morning and taste mosbolletjies, mos and harvest bread.

It is a busy time for the wine estates and the excitement is almost tangible. In addition to the picking teams who are working around the clock to fill crate after crate with the swollen fruits of the vine, there are also visiting trainees from around the world on some of the larger estates who are adding their cosmopolitan brand to the harvest.

At Hamilton Russell, the teams have finished with the reds and are now picking chardonnay grapes.

Mark van Helderen, winemaker at La Vierge said the grapes intended for the estate’s Cap Classique have been harvested and they are now picking chardonnay and sauvignon blanc grapes.

At Creation, further down the valley, JC Martin and Cristophe Kaser have also started harvesting sauvignon blanc grapes. The excited young winemakers believe this is their best harvest ever.


Pamela Gordon of Creation shows off some of the gorgeous shiraz grapes on the farm.

Hemel-en-Aarde winemaking pioneer Peter Finlayson adds a word of caution: “Never count your chickens before they are hatched.  I have learned through the years that it is often the more difficult harvests that yield the best wines.” He concedes however that this year’s harvest is exceptional!

Paul Cluver is the Riesling winner

Shirley de Kock Gueller reports that Paul Cluver’s Elgin Estate has emerged overall winner and winner of two of three categories in the Just Riesling wine tasting organised this year as part of the International Riesling Festival at the Round House, Camp Bay, Cape Town.

The tasting panel comprised Cathy van Zyl, MW (chair), Miguel Chan, Tim James, Ingrid Motteaux, Jeanette de Fleuriot and Angela Lloyd, with Ernst Loosen, Egon Müller, Helmut Dönnhoff, Phillip Wittman, Willi Brundmayer and Dirk van Niepoort representing the international community. Just Riesling’s aim is to raise the profile of the Riesling grape, and showcase its perfect partnership to the South African way of life, climate and cuisine, with focus on the technical advancement of the plant material and research.

Winning the two categories it entered – there were 26 categories overall – the 2008 Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest was the overall winner.

According to Tim James, writing in Grape: “ Andries Burger has shown himself to be the most  sensitive crafter of riesling in the country, and this Elgin property regularly turns out immensely palatable, elegant dryish rieslings which develop well for a good few years, as well as one of the best Noble Late Harvest wines in the country, of any variety, which have been widely acclaimed internationally.”

Heady stuff!

Two new stars in Creation’s firmament

From Creation Wines in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley comes the long-awaited news that this inspired team is about to launch their maiden Chardonnay (2008) and Pinot noir (2008). The Hemel-en-Aarde valley, of course is currently leading the way for these two cultivars.

Says Carolyn Martin, co-owner and marketing manager of Creation: “We are proud to build on this reputation, offering wine lovers two terroir-expressive wines with the exuberant flavours of the New World – beautifully balanced with the finesse and sophistication of the Old.”

The 3-year old vines that yielded the chardonnay climb the misty slopes of Babylon’s Tooren while the grapes for the pinot noir hail from 5-year old wines flourishing at a lofty 350m above sea level, Both wines were matured under optimum conditions in 225 litre French oak barriques.

A mere 3000 bottles of each variety were produced and according to Carolyn, a third of the Pinot has already been sold en primeur.

Creation winemakers Jean-Claude Martin and Cristoph Kaser describe the newcomers as such:

Creation Chardonnay 2008

Straw yellow with attractive glints of green. On the nose glorious layers of sun-kissed pear and peach are enhanced by fresh minerality and a hint of piquant vanilla. The full-bodied palate is in perfect harmony; generously fruity with well-judged acidity contributing excellent balance and a lively, lingering aftertaste.

Creation Pinot Noir 2006

Deep ruby in colour, gleaming and inviting in the glass. The intensely fragrant bouquet shows a mélange of red berry aromas, elegant vanilla and a whiff of wood spice. These follow through on the full-bodied palate where soft supple tannins contribute to the dense structure. A superbly balanced wine with a lingering, memorable aftertaste.

I have had the privilege of tasting both wines, the Pinot with a rare fillet of beef and salad and the Chardonnay with  Kingklip and a creamy, lemony sauce. Ooh lá lá!


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