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NOSY ROSY WINE COLUMN

Parlez-vous Vino?
Lianda Beyers-Cronje, world traveller, passionate wine lover
and wine columnist
on Nosy Rosy.

 

Previous writings & wine tales.
1
 Wine world - A dazzling season
A winemaker’s dream 
The secret season 
Pinotage is the perfect winter partner
There are bubbles in the air
A winemaker’s dream
Autumn seduction
Overberg wines continue to soar

A new wine destination
Come on Summer!

 

Another icon of excellence

The bevy of beautiful, rich, famous and artistic people who gathered at the opening of the new Southern Right cellar and tasting room on the evening of 15 December 2009, all had one thing in common – their love for wine of excellence.
Situated high on a beautiful green slope in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, some three km from Hermanus, the Southern Right Cellar and tasting room is not only a monument to old Overberg architectural style but also another icon of excellence in the Walker Bay wine ward.

Not easily detected from the main road winding through the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, Southern Right founder Anthony Hamilton Russell, had good reason to build the cellar and tasting room at that particular spot high up the slope from where one has a bird’s eye view of the historic brick factory that was the first to provide the Hermanus area with bricks, and the valley below.
Passionate about the value that history lends to a sense of place, Anthony Hamilton Russell insisted on using exact replicas of the red bricks from which the old brick factory was structured in the tasting room that forms the centre of the cellar. Stones from the vineyards are used in the foundation of the cellar and tasting room and a big rock excavated at the first Sauvignon blanc vineyard destined for the Southern Right cellar, takes pride of place in the middle of the tasting room.
Guests at this illustrious function were plied with generous tastings of the Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc and Southern Right Pinotage for which the cellar has became famous over the past decade and more, while nibbling on cheese, olives, strawberries and other delicacies from the area. Each of the guests was presented with a bottle of exquisite Southern Right olive oil on departure.
Anthony Hamilton Russell founded Southern Right Cellars in 1994 as a Pinotage specialist convinced that Pinotage has the intrinsic qualities to produce truly world class wine with a distinct South African expression and typicity. As an early ripening grape, it was his believe that Pinotage would perform best in cooler maritime areas where a longer slower ripening season would afford fuller developed tannins and greater fruit complexity.
In 1998 a 113 hectare farm adjacent to the existing Hamilton Russell Vineyards was purchased in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley as a central home for the Southern Right cellar.
The first Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc were released in 1995.
With each bottle of Southern Right wine sold, Southern Right Cellars make a contribution to the Southern Right whale in the Walker Bay after which the winery was named.
The new Southern Right cellar and tasting room is testimony to not only great winemaking but a sense of place that is unique in the world.
Visit the cellar and tasting room yourself to experience this special place and wines in the truest sense of the word.


A charming chapel

Ataraxia Mountain Vineyards’ new tasting room is situated on a foothill in the shadow of the majestic Babylon’s Toren in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley.
The charming building, built in the style of a simple Overberg chapel is a dream come true for award-winning winemaking perfectionist Kevin Grant.
I had the honour to stood on that hill some two years ago with Kevin when he showed me the incredible view from there and told me about his envisaged tasting room.
When I visited the tasting room that opened for the first time for the public earlier in December 2009, the realisation of that imaginary sketch surpassed my expectations…
Says the winemaker: “It has being a long time coming and if fear were the basis on which decisions were made, then Ataraxia would never have been born”.
Kevin pours his heart into expressing the land’s sense of place through four handcrafted wines under the label “Ataraxia” – Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot noir and a red blend, Serenity.
Tasting room assistant Johan Kriek told me that they were surprisingly busy over the festive period, taking in view that they have not really advertised the opening of the tasting room.
“We had a lot of visitors, mainly foreign tourists who recognised the Ataraxia label while passing on their way through the valley and then decided to stop at the tasting room,” he said.
Tasting Kevin Grant’s highly acclaimed Ataraxia wines is an experience worth writing home about …
Says Kevin about Sauvignon blanc: “Sauvignon blanc has shown itself to be an enduringly popular and interesting variety in South Africa and has the ability, when planted in judiciously selected sites to produce wines of class and finesse. What is so intriguing about this variety is that it is also very much a viticulturist’s grape, where attention to detail in the vineyards is an absolute prerequisite and cornerstone to the production of quality wines.”
The Ataraxia Sauvignon blanc has been awarded four stars by the John Platter Wine Guide in 2006 as well as five stars by Decanter and a further four and a half stars by Platter in 2007, 2008 and 2009.
“Chardonnay is a grape variety that I have been romanced by for more than 14 years, and the love affair deepens with each passing vintage,” says Kevin, “To my mind, Chardonnay is the complete white grape variety. Although it demands respect, attention to detail, a comprehensive understanding of the terroir where the grapes grow and in intuitive flair, the wine gives itself so completely when you get everything right that it’s hard not to become totally awed with it. Life without Chardonnay is like not being able to breathe!”
Ataraxia Chardonnay 2005 was awarded four and a half stars by John Platter in 2007, named one of the 10 best wines tasted during 2006 by Michael Fridjhon in Wine Magazine, named Best New World White Wine by Stephen Purrier in Decanter Magazine in February 2007 and called one of the best South African Chardonnays tasted by James Molesworth in The Wine Spectator (US) 2007.
The 2006 Chardonnay achieved a rating of 92/100 in The Wine Spectator (US) 2007, became one of only five South African Chardonnay producers to be recommended in a comprehensive review of Chardonnay from around the world in The Wine Spectator and was awarded four and a half stars by John Platter.
The 2007 Ataraxia Chardonnay was selected by blind tasting, out of 38 top SA wines tasted, believed to be the finest SA whites currently available, to be showcased at the prestigious International Wine and Food Society Festival held in Cape Town in February 2009. The vintage was awarded five stars by John Platter and was named winner of the Chardonnay Trophy in the fiercely contested Tri Nations Wine Challenge 2008 between Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
The 2008 vintage was once again awarded five stars by John Platter and achieved a gold medal in the Classic Wine Trophy Competition 2009.
On Pinot noir Kevin says: “It remains one of those elusive grape varieties that once it cast its spell on you becomes and remains a life-long obsession and passion. In South Africa , experience and research has shown the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley to be unequivocally the most exciting and promising area for quality Pinot noir production, easily on par and often exceeding the quality attained in other New World Pinot noir producing regions. I believe I can take Pinot noir to heights not yet seen in this country.”
Ataraxia’s red blend has as its primary goal the ultimate expression of a red blend from South Africa. At present Kevin does not concentrate on the cultivars that make up this blend. The quest is to show that “where from” is far more decisive than “what from” and is the truest expression of a wine’s personality. Kevin has, however, always been excited at the notion of a seven, twelve, even fifteen variety blend, where the true art of blending is taken to its logical and comprehensive conclusion.”
Serenity 2005 vintage was named one of the top 20 Hot New Wines by British Airways in 2007 while also winning a silver medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2007. It was awarded four stars by John Platter.
The 2006 vintage was awarded four stars by Platter and achieved a bronze medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards while the 2007 vintage once again achieved a four star rating by Platter.
Visiting this beautiful tasting room is granting a favour to your soul!

Busy, busy, busy…
A quick survey among wineries in the Hemel and Aarde valley has shown that they were very busy between Christmas and New Year while business was slower during the first part of December. Surprisingly, most visitors are from Cape Town and Johannesburg with only a few locals taking the time to explore the valley!
The Wines of Hermanus and Overberg Region Summer Festival proved to be probably the most popular ever with 20 cellars showcasing their wine and hundreds of people browsing through the stalls and enjoying the excellent wines made in our region!
Why not making a wine tasting trip to our local cellars one of your new year’s resolutions? I am taking some close friends of mine on such a trip – soon!
PS. The Newton Johnson Sauvignon blanc 2009 just found itself a place on British Airways’ menu and this exquisite wine is selling out fast. Hurry-up to get your share!
An here is a toast to 2010, dear friends! Let us hope that this will be the year that our local people will start discovering the winery jewels on their doorstep!


 

 
 

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